Are you in the market for vintage or antique engagement rings? This expertly illustrated article from Jabel's 1925 catalog, Ring Transformations, gives you a great snapshot into early 20th century jewerly making and ring manufacturing techniques. It will help you learn what to look for when shopping today. The excess stress of years of wear may have taken a toll on many of the antique rings you see today, here is why Jabel is always a wise choice!
Features of the Jabel Ring
How Jabel engagement ring settings were made with practical comparative illustrations to other early 20th Century designers.
PLATE A - Shows the unit parts or pieces of an ordinary ring, known as a "finding" ring.
Figure 1 - In figure 1 you will note that the two complete circular pieces cut cross-sectionally, which must be soldered together at every point. If this type of ring were opened for resizing, it would be seen that the solder running throughout the entire circle of the ring tends to ooze out, the delicate ornamentation of the shank begins to crumble, and the pin holes in the seam continue to increase in size and number as time goes on.
Figure 2 - (Plate A) shows the machine-made tow piece top, which must be soldered at four points.
PLATE B - The difference in manufacuting is futher articulated when you examine the minimal solder points in a Jabel setting.
Figure 1 - In figure 1 you will see the Jabel method of welding together the two shanks at only tow points of contact. The resizing of this type of ring offers no problem whatsoever, because it is cut at a point which was originally open, and where there is nothing to give way.
Figure 2 - illustrates the one-piece top, entirely hand-pierced.
Why are solder points a concern?
Solder points on engagement rings settings, as with all jewelry, can be a point of weakness as the pieces are joined together with solder. Depending on what type of alloys are used in the solder they may be less resistant to environmental elements; cleaning chemicals, soaps, chlorinated pools and hot tubs, etc. Likewise, a solid piece of metal is stronger than two joined together.
