It's not uncommon for brides to get swept away with the romantic lure of vintage engagement rings; dreaming of the previous love affair the rings bore witness too and romanticizing the life story of it's predecessor. If it's a a family heirloom than dream away. However, if you are buying a ring without knowing the history and how well it has been maintained over the decades, then you want to be sure you know what you are getting into.There are two main points of concern that you will want to address. Knowing the answers to these questions will be crucial to keeping your investment safe. After all, romanticism aside, you are investing a significant amount of money and you want to protect your investment. Ask yourself these questions:
How was your ring made?
How well has your ring been maintained?
Pictorial description of die striking; demonstrating how the ring's shank and head are slowly struck and formed.How was my ring made?So, why is the manufacturing method so important. Simple, a poorly made ring will have a short life span just as a well made ring will have a long lifespan. You want the latter! Well made vintage engagement rings will be produced using time tested jewelry making methods, like die striking. Die struck jewelry is made by using carefully alloyed precious metals that are annealed and then struck using immense amounts of force to slowly shape the gold or platinum into the desired ring shape. The result is dense metal that is incredibly strong. While die striking may bring a higher price tag from it's heavier metal weight and labor requirements the added cost will pay off in the long run with dramatically lower repair, restoration, and replacement fees. It's a true heirloom quality piece of jewelry.A less expensive method of jewelry making you will want to avoid in vintage rings are cast pieces. Cast jewelry is made by melting gold and pouring it into molds. While the product looks fantastic to start with, the low pressure method ends up creating a softer less dense metal that is easily affected by wear and tear.Many people ask, "how can I tell the difference between cast and die struck jewelry." The answer is two fold. Typically, if you are very familiar with jewelry you feel the difference in weight between the cast and the die struck. If you are not as well versed you can research the hallmark of the ring or contact a trusted local jeweler who has the knowledge and expertise needed to make the distinction.Likewise, even within the past century of die striking jewelry, there are varying degrees of craftsmanship when it comes to ring construction. As pictured below, vintage rings from the early 20th century have different assembly methods. Ideally, you want a ring with the least amount of solder points as possible. Solder points are the places where the metal is connected using solder in a method akin to welding. Carefully exam your ring to identify these points.
Pictorial description above shows the Jabel method of ring construction versus other early 20th century die struck manufacturers.Why is ring maintenance important?It is also important to look for key indicators that will tell you how well a ring has been maintained. Vintage engagement rings that have not been maintained will have weakened structures, damage, and/or missing stones. All of these can result in either expensive restoration bills, replacement of stones, loss of a ring, or a combination of these circumstances. Here are some of the most important things you want to look at while you are shopping for vintage engagement rings.Worn JewelryWorn jewelry is a big 'no no' with vintage engagement rings. Here is what to look for:Prongs - Make sure the prongs on the stones are totally covering the stone and are still crisp and defined.Shanks - With worn shanks the band can look unevenly thinned in one area.Motif - Make sure the design is still crisp and visible.Cracked JewelryCracked jewelry can be a big red flag. These are some warning signs:Prongs - A cracked prong will need immediate attention. If the prong fails you will likely loose your stone.Shanks - A cracked shank can indicate excessive or abusive wear, multiple sizings, etc.Stones - Cracked stones will need to be replaced. Look carefully along in the stone for milky lines as well as on the surface for cracks that may cast a shadow. However, if you are looking at vintage engagement rings with emeralds, please be aware that emeralds have naturally occurring inclusions. Have a jewelry look at vintage emerald rings for their expert opinion.Bent JewelryGive the ring a thorough look over and make sure that both the prongs and shank are straight and not bent. This is a sign of a weakened structure.Shadows In MetalIf you look at the base of their shank, where the band sits on the palm side of your finger, look for any shadows or ripples in the metal. This can indicate sizing. It is not uncommon for vintage rings to have been size, but you want to make sure that it has not been sized multiple times, and that the jeweler who did the work was knowledgeable. Too much and/or poor sizing can affect the integrity of the ring.Missing StonesA ring that has been lovingly cared for will be well maintained, which typically means that lost stones are replaced. If a ring is missing stones, you have just cause to wonder what else may have been neglected.
What if my perfect ring is not in good condition?
When you really start examining vintage engagement rings you may find that your perfect ring just does not exist in the quality you want. At that point you have a choice, settle for a less desirable ring or design your own engagement ring.
I don't believe a couple should settle on a ring. This is perhaps your first major purchase together and you want to look back at it for years to come and love every bit of it. If the ring you envision does not exist, make it exist! Sure, you may be passing up the vintage romanticism, but you are gaining a new ring with the quality you want. Plus, you get the exact look you want!
Email us to find a local Jabel jeweler at info@jabel.com